Posted on: March 29th, 2010 RLRoyal Kitchen

See Featured Restaurants.

Posted on: March 29th, 2010 RLR: Royal Kitchen: Decidedly Bland

TH: **
GS: **
RL: **
BH: ***
Average Rating: **¼

Friday saw the Eating Alphabetically team venturing out to review restaurant “R”. We’d had a bit of a swing and miss start, as it turns out restaurants such as Rive Gauche and Rozenhof have recently closed, or changed their names, but were still fairly positive about our third choice; Royal Kitchen in Kloof street.

Although their website was…let’s call it, functional at best, the image of the restaurant suggested that they had avoided the usual Asian restaurant trap of simply throwing some fans and silk banners on the wall and had invested some real time into making it look professional. We were intrigued. Although we weren’t expecting Haiku, we had hopes for our evening out.

Alas, the problem with hoping, is that it’s so easy to be disappointed. To start with, parking on Kloof street was horrific. This was somewhat to be expected, but having to drive around for 20min, and then park 4 blocks away never puts anyone in a good mood. There is some garage parking under the building, but you have to have a long discussion with the guard at the door, and then hold thumbs that your car can actually make the extreme slope without scratching your bumper. Our car couldn’t make it, hense the long walk, but GS and TH’s could, which also meant they managed to avoid the rain later. Were BH and I a little bitter? Perhaps, but you try walking 4 blocks in heels!

Never-the-less, we made it, and were determined to enjoy some authentic Asian cuisine. Again, our hopes were lifted, as the restaurant had several Asian tables; and it’s always a good sign if the restaurant is popular with authentic people of the culture. Unfortunately, we later decided that they get to order from an entirely different menu from the rest of us, as the back of the menu is entirely in Chinese, and doesn’t seem to correspond in any way to the English version. More’s the pity, because our options, although sounding good, were incredibly boring when they actually arrived.

For starters, we shared an array of Steamed Prawn Dumplings (which we actually enjoyed), Vegetable Springrolls (which lacked anything other than cabbage), Deep-fried Pork Riblets (which we’re pretty sure were the worst parts of the meat and very fatty) and finally, some bread balls filled with beef and ostrich (which were so memorable, I can’t even remember what they were called). Thankfully, although we ordered 2 portions of this, only 1 arrived.

Ok, so not a great start, but maybe the mains would be better. Who doesn’t enjoy Cashew Nut Chicken? Apparently, we don’t. Particularly when it’s about as boring as the Vegetable Springrolls. Which isn’t good, considering that the Cashew Chicken was one of the better main meals. The Clay Pot Beef was just as memorable, while the Orange Duck was virtually inedible; the orange sauce flavourless and the meat itself was actually a combination of fat and skin. What little duck meat there was had an oily sheen like corned beef, or as GS put it, was “like sunshine on an oily rain puddle”. The only meal we enjoyed was the Sweet and Sour Pork, which I have to say, had a delicious sauce and nice, crunchy vegetables. This however, yet again brought us to 1 dish out of 4 that we actually enjoyed. Even with the supremely cheap final bill we received, which also covered various drinks, wine and some desserts, this simply isn’t acceptable. It made us long for those fan and silk banner hung Asian restaurants that at least offer you flavour and character, if not a trendy Kloof street location.

On top of all this, the lights kept changing in brightness, sometimes making us feel as though we were dining in a canteen, a child was wailing (although happily) from the kitchen, and the service, although friendly and eager, didn’t inspire confidence.

In my, granted, not-so-humble opinion, I would leave this restaurant well alone.

Ambiance: **½
Service: ***
Food: *½
Wine: **

Royal Kitchen Asian Restaurant / 1st Floor / Kloof Street Junction / 115 Kloof Street / Gardens / Tel: 021 422 1888/3888 / Email: info@royalkitchen.co.za / www.royalkitchen.co.za

Posted on: March 16th, 2010 RLDepasco Café

Well, we finally made it to Depasco café on Kloof street. Unfortunately we went on a Sunday, so it was a little quiet. In fact, they’re not even going to be open on Sundays any more. The rest of the week however, I’ve seen this place pleasantly buzzing with patrons, and I can see why.

The interiors are crisply sophisticated. There’s an attention to detail, and a little imagination, but this open space with high ceilings is definitely understated, creating a relaxed atmosphere. The service was excellent, and the view through the large windows perfect for those who relish the city and watching passers by.

If anything, my only wish for Depasco is that the food had a little more flavour. Don’t get me wrong, I greatly enjoyed my Depasco twist on eggs benedict, the Depasco Florentine with its gruyere bearnaise sauce, I just wished for a little more oomph. Don’t let this put you off however, as they have a great list of breakfasts to choose from, as well as a long list of sandwiches and pizzas. On top of this, the coffee was excellent.

Depasco Café / Shop 5 / Buitenkloof Studios / Kloof Street / Tel: 021 424 7070 / Email: info@depasco.co.za

Posted on: March 12th, 2010 THQuay Four Upstairs

See Featured Restaurants.

Posted on: March 12th, 2010 THQ: Quay Four Upstairs: Quite a Surprise

TH: ***
GS: ***
RL: **
BH: **½
Average Rating: **½

It was a clear, warm summer’s evening that saw the Eating Alphabetically crew on its way to Q.  We didn’t expect much from Quay Four to be honest. So many Waterfront restaurants coast along on views and position, and it’s rare to find one that puts much effort into really fantastic food.  Nonetheless, our Q options were limited, and we were looking forward to a pleasant evening enjoying the ocean breeze and good company at the very least.

Quay Four is practically a Cape Town institution.  Enjoying its quay-side position almost since the inception of the Waterfront, the ground floor pub is well known (and loved) for its fish and chips, cold beer and live music.  Upstairs, the “elegant dining” section is, however, somewhat less well known and, from our experience, far less frequented.

There is very little drama heading into Upstairs.  A simple, wooden staircase next to the entrance to the pub takes you up to the very plain, slightly dated interior of the restaurant.  The views are typically Waterfront: bobbing yachts, lights reflecting on the water, and the occasional sleepy seagull.  The balcony looked like the most pleasant place to be seated, although we were seated inside, and I’d recommend requesting a table out there.

Quay Four’s menu focuses on fresh seafood, but they also offer several meat, poultry, vegetarian and pasta dishes. Spoilt for choice, we finally decided on starters, with RL having the Scallop and Kingclip fishcakes and BH having the Steamed Mussels in a garlic, dill, white wine and cream sauce.  GS chose the Tempura prawns with crispy-fried leeks, and I tried the baby calamari tubes in chilli orange butter.  RL’s fishcakes were very enjoyable, but BH was peculiarly quiet about his mussels. We later found out that he found them extremely disappointing, remarking that they tasted like tinned mussels in an instant packet-sauce, but didn’t want to worry RL who had ordered them for her main. GS’s tempura prawns were crunchy and delicious, with the crispy-fried leeks adding an unusual, but tasty element to this popular starter. My baby calamari tubes were outstanding, with the fresh, zesty, orangey sauce complimenting the delicate calamari flavour to perfection.

With the notable exception of the mussels, the starters were a happy surprise, and we were looking forward to our mains.  RL, unfortunately, had the same abysmal experience with her mussels, and was suitably unimpressed. GS’s rare tuna steaks arrived very much overcooked and had to be sent back.  His accompanying pesto mash and teriyaki sauce, however, were sublime. As in close-your-eyes-so-that-pesky-vision-doesn’t-detract-from-the-flavour-symphony-in-your-mouth-sublime. Sadly the second plate with the tuna steaks now rare as ordered, somehow managed to subtly change the mash and sauce, which, while still delicious, just didn’t have the same radiant flavour.  GS manfully hid his tears of disappointment, and went to work on his now edible, but still unimpressive tuna steaks.  BH, meanwhile tucked into his Catch of the Day – Blackfish, which he opted to have oven-baked with tomato, white anchovies, olives & feta cheese, topped with a crustacean sauce.  He was, at first, less than excited by the mild-flavoured fish, but discovered that the white anchovies really complemented the flavours and ended up thoroughly satisfied with his choice.  Continuing my citrus trend, I chose the Duck, which was served perfectly crisp, moist and flavourful, with a rich, sweet, citrus jus – definitely one of the better duck dishes I’ve enjoyed.

Courses must have been large; not even we seasoned eaters could find room to sample the desserts, which were presented on an old-fashioned trolley, a little out-of-keeping with the elegant dining experience.

Service throughout the meal was polite, but lacked the refinement of fine dining establishments.  Our waitress was never around when we needed her, despite the small number of occupied tables to serve and while proficient and professional when we could find her, made us feel a little like a transaction, rather than valued guests.

The atmosphere was sadly dull, as the restaurant was more than half-empty (or less than half full, if you prefer).  The cutlery, crockery and glasses were also more suited to the Spur than an upmarket restaurant.

Overall Quay Four is tricky to categorise. The food, other than the mussels, was better on average, than your standard Waterfront establishment, and prices were not obviously aimed at tourist pockets. It is difficult, however, to forget just how bad the mussels were, and we wonder how a rare tuna steak becomes cooked beyond recognition in a professional kitchen. The decor could definitely use a revamp, and I’d advise going on a weekend in the hopes of a livelier atmosphere. That said, parts of our meal were outstanding, and I, for one, wouldn’t turn down the opportunity to sample the baby calamari or that Teriyaki sauce again.

So how do we vote on Quay Four?  Unreliable. Unpredictable. In good conscience we just can’t recommend a restaurant that can bring you a sublime dish for one course, and something virtually inedible for the next. Or that changes the recipe for its sauces from one plate to the next.  I hate to say it, because my own meal was great, but until Eating Alphabetically can say, without doubt, that the same standard applies to all the dishes, we’re going to have to suggest our readers give it a miss. Such potential, but just too much like Russian roulette with food.

Ambiance: *
Service: **½
Food: ***
Wine: **½

Quay Four Upstairs / Quay 4 / V&A Waterfront / Tel: 021 419 2008 / Email: info@quay4.co.za / www.quay4.co.za