TH: ****
GS: ****
Average Rating: ****
Bombay Brasserie, located in the upmarket Taj Hotel in the centre of town, offers some of the best Indian food available to those willing to meet its prices.
Upon entering, it becomes immediately apparent that you are visiting a 5-star restaurant. The elegant chandeliers, the subdued yet regal detailing on the blue walls, the embroidered chairs and the perfectly laid out place seatings are all on par with other first-class establishments.
The service keeps pace with the environment - you very quickly realize this is a premier restaurant that happens to serve Indian cuisine, rather than an Indian establishment striving to be the best at it’s game. We were welcomed with an attractive, multi-colored plate of snacks with subtle mango chutney. I felt the chutney could have done with a bit more flavor, but it served to keep us nibbling until our starters could arrive.
Before our starters, we were treated to an amuse bouche of a dried fruit filled with a mixture of nuts, spices and raisins. Whilst quite dry, the taste could best be described as an Indian Christmas. Certainly something different, and enjoyable.
And oh, what starters. We ordered two of the more interesting sounding options from the menu - home-made cottage cheese, spiced and then char-grilled; and apricot-and-potato cakes with a spiced yoghurt sauce. Both of these were amazingly good. The cottage cheese had a fantastic texture, slightly chewy, and it was served with a coriander dressing that paired perfectly. So good was the cheese that we felt forced to keep some aside to try with our mains. It deserves to mentioned that the portions on the cheese were such that we had a bit to spare! The apricot-and-potato cakes, whilst smaller, made up for it by being delicious. The sauce was both sweet and nicely spiced, and a fair bit of it ended up being used with the cottage cheese. If those cakes were available as a main, I may well have been tempted to go for a second serving.
To refresh us before our mains, we were served a guava sorbet. Whilst I cannot say that guava is my favorite fruit, the presentation on this dish was incredible. It came on an “Aladdin’s lamp”-style pot with a reservoir of dried ice that continually bathed your sorbet in wreathes of smoke as you ate it. A visual treat!
Our mains were on the more traditional side, and we ordered from the selection of restaurant specialties. The lamb shank with a saffron-tinged gravy was excellently cooked, although the saffron was unnoticeable behind the otherwise subtle curry flavors. The gravy itself was wonderful, and very little was left on our plates afterwards. Equally enjoyable was the other main, a Chicken Tikka curry with a surprisingly thick sauce. Again, the flavors were surprisingly subtle. Those worried about heat can relax - a perfect balance was struck with just enough heat to tease the mouth without ever needing you to resort to a tissue.
The wine list on offer was varied enough to provide an option for any occasion, including offering a number of Nederburg International Wine Auction wines for those looking for something a little different. However, be warned - your options for under R180 are almost non-existent.
In conclusion, Bombay Brasserie offer another excellent addition to Cape Towns haute cuisine establishments. Whilst the prices preclude it becoming a regular haunt; I can unreservedly recommend it to those looking for an interesting option for that special occasion.
Ambiance: ****
Service: ****
Food: ****
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: ***½
Bombay Brasserie / The Taj Hotel / Crnr Wale and Adderly / Cape Town / Tel: 021 819 2000
Posted on: July 5th, 2010 GS&Union
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BH: ***
RL: ***
TH: ***
GS: ****
Average Rating: ***
Finding a suitable restaurant to review, whose name starts with a “U” is difficult letter. So the Eating Alphabetically crew stretched out a little, and went to &Union for some top-quality beer and dressed-up pub food. Situated on Bree Street, just next to heritage square, it’s well placed to cater to the town crowd with it’s central location and plentiful parking.
&Union’s operational concept is “Pig and Beer”, and they’ve executed this well. Don’t expect a traditional restaurant - &Union is far closer to a pub in atmosphere. Seating is available in the form of large wooden benches (prepare to share with strangers), set up under a large tent that kept the insides warm despite the cold night outside. On the evening we were there, the place was busy (although not packed), with queues to order and many people left standing. The large screens showing the soccer certainly gave them something to watch, though. A warning - if you wanted a quiet meal in private, stay away.
Initially, things were confusing as we entered. The entrance wasn’t clearly visible, nobody greeted us on entry and we were left to find ourselves somewhere to sit and figure out that you needed to fetch a menu from the bar. These are only problems for first-time visitors, but we still felt a little lost for direction. The crowd inside was quite varied, and the atmosphere definitely casual and relaxed. The table sharing meant that quite often you’d see strangers chatting and mingling in true “pub style”.
A major portion of &Unions claim to fame is their line-up of “artisanal” beers. BH and I both had the Brewers & Union Dark Lager - smooth, rich, softly bitter with a nutty core, it went down beautifully. At R40 for a 500ml bottle, it isn’t the cheapest beer on the market, but the premium you pay is rewarded with a quality product. TH (definitely not a beer drinker), stepped out of her comfort zone and drank the Collective São Gabriel Berne Amber. She described it as light and sweet, extremely smooth and very drinkable, even for her. She enjoyed it enough to ask for a second!
All ordering for both food and drinks happens at the bar. A number of pub-style food options are available, from grilled pork sausages in traditional German style to cheese boards. TH and RL both had the “Juicy Saucisson” board (R60), and spent a while laughing whilst trying to pronounce the name. Consisting of a large pork sausage, some bread, a small dish of tapas-style chips and a baby salad, it was described as tasty and filling, but quite oily. The sausage specifically was “tasty, salty, YUM”. I ordered the Prego roll (R60) on the advice of the Bafana-attired diners we shared a table with, but was a little less enamoured of it than they were. The roll itself, topped with ham from the charcuterie was tasty, with a flame grilled smokiness that went well with the marinade, but the meat was tougher than I’d have liked. It did bring out a notable fruitiness in my dark lager that had been missing before - a good pairing. The tapas chips were a little flavourless, although the baby salad was light and crispy, with a subtle lemon-basil dressing. Be warned - the accompanying chilli for the Prego roll was devilishly hot - use with care. Lastly, BH consumed the charcuterie board (R65), providing him with a selection of cured and smoked meats with accompanying salad and ciabatta. Good portions, and a meal that was appreciably simple and straightforward. Overall, it was good for pub food and for the price.
At the end of the day, &Union has a strong concept and keeps to it. Pub food, lifted to a higher level. The food prices were reasonable, and the beer expensive but good. I can’t say I’d go back for the food or the beer alone… but as a vibey location to watch a sports game or an alternative to the usual lunch-time spots, it certainly has a place.
Food: ***
Ambiance: ***
Beverages: ****
Bathrooms: **½
Service: N/A
&Union Beer Salon and Charcuterie / St Stephen’s Church / 110 Bree Street / Cape Town / Tel: 021 422 2770 / Email: pigandbeer@andunion.com / www.andunion.com/AndUnion/Union.html
TH: ***½
GS: ****
RL: ***½
BH: ****
Average Rating: ****
With our third visit to Opal Lounge, we noticed a definite change. The cuisine in the past had always been delicious and well-presented, but the menu has now definitely advanced firmly in to the realm of “haute cuisine” and concept food - with a corresponding increase in price. This is always a difficult style of food to serve… every dish is a unique combination of ingredients and flavours. Small mistakes can ruin the entire dish, and balancing the flavours is often tricky. The top restaurants manage this juggling act, and institutions that do not scarcely last long.
In our experience, Opal Lounge is up to the challenge so far - their food, whilst not the best available in the city, is certainly remarkable enough to warrant a visit. I’d suggest that they need a little bit more time to perfect some of the dishes - the quality of the food varied, with some outstanding dishes and some more mediocre ones, but the overall experience was good. Specifically, presentation was in top form - most of the dishes more closely resembled works of art (at least until the first few bites!).
For starters, RL thoroughly enjoyed the Pan-seared Scallops, accompanied with a Chorizo foam (the saltiness paring well with the scallops). BH ordered the Mushroom Tortellini - a dish which has changed drastically since Opal Lounge’s inception. The current offering is an excellent starter, with a delicately spiced creamy sauce accompanying filled tortellinis. GS’s Venison and Chocolate Dimsung was appreciated by the ladies around the table, but GS remarked that the chocolate itself was initially very overpowering (offputtingly so), although it grew on him over the life of the dish. Lastly, TH’s Prawn and Avocado Caesar Salad bore only the faintest resemblance to its namesake - although the presentation did not get in the way of her enjoying it fully.
Our mains offered a slightly more mixed bag. RL had ordered Almond-crusted Venison, which she found uninspiring. To be precise, her most noteworthy comment was on the amount of caramalized red cabbage that accompanied it - too much for her (or anyone!) to eat. GS had the Thai Marinated Salmon without any complaints. Lightly seared, delicately flavoured in a way that accompanied and enhanced rather than overpowered the salmon itself. The Soya-glazed Duck Salad that BH had was certainly not short on the duck - and the accompanying greens added a lighter freshness to balance the salty fattiness of the duck itself. Lastly, TH’s Lamb Shank with a berry foam was described as “alright, but not the best lamb shank around”.
The desserts were a highlight - no missteps here! The inventive Tiramisu Creme Brulee (served in a martini glass, with the creme brulee resting above the tiramisu), was delicious even without the accompanying ice cream and biscotti with a coffee dipping sauce. The Catalana Custard, whilst less inventive, was also thoroughly enjoyed - enough so that sharing was out of the question!
Price wise, starters averaged around R60 and mains R130. Not quite the bargain we discovered when we first visited Opal Lounge, but certainly reasonable and comparable to other restaurants in this range. We were disappointed that no host greeted us at the door, and whilst the service was technically capable, the tableside manner of the waiter could have been better. He seemed reticent to make any personal recommendations, and could provide little more information on the dishes that the menu itself offered.
In the end, Opal Lounge continues to offer dining in one of Cape Town’s most attractive establishments, and their cocktails alone justify a visit… but whilst you’re there, you may as well stay for the food.
Ambiance: ****
Service: ***
Food: ***½
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: ****
Opal Lounge Restaurant / 30 Kloof Street / Tel: 021 422 4747 / rochelle@theopallounge.co.za / http://www.theopallounge.co.za
Posted on: August 23rd, 2009 GSGreenhouse
Our recent visit to the Greenhouse Restaurant at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel left us very impressed. From start to finish, exceptional service was the order of the evening. The unobtrusive but personal attention from the perfectly-mannered staff was everything you might expect from a 5-star hotel, and by the end of the night, we left feeling like royalty.
Upon our arrival (and after being led to the restaurant by a helpful member of the hotel staff), we decided to relax in the adjoining Martini bar before our meal. Their cocktail menu is currently being verified by the Guiness World Record people as having the largest selection of Martini’s in the world – and it’s an easy claim to believe with 155 choices on the menu. In the end, we settled on two of the more exotic choices – a “San Martini” and a Spicy Cranberry Martini (a delicious cross between a Cosmopolitan and a Bloody Mary). Both arrived in attractive and unusually decorated martini glasses. My only criticism is that the prices were definitely aimed at the international market – between R55 and R90 per drink.
As we relaxed and drank our cocktails, there was no shortage of treats to nibble on. We were served both a tray of bar snacks (cheese sticks, chips, nuts and an excellent olive tapenade) and a selection of canapés – tuna tartare, a white tomato soup and a mushroom-cream pastry.
We elected to enjoy the Greenhouse Restaurants “Winter Warmer Special” for R200 per person, which expires at the end of August. We had two choices for each of the three courses (plus an amuse bouche). For our starters, we both elected to have the Seafood Cerviche – which arrived as a fresh and light salad which remained extremely true to the ingredients – whilst I was initially disappointed, I must admit it grew on me the more I ate. Our mains were, unfortunately, the only disappointing part of the evening. TH’s Yellow-fin Tuna arrived without any dressing of note, and in many ways seemed like a subpar rehash of the starter. My own roast chicken was a little dry and lacking in sophistication – a mushroom sauce on top failed to lift it out of mediocrity.
The remainder of the meal and service were excellent, however. The wine list seemed desperate to exceed even the cocktail menu in length, arriving in a large book with over 450 choices available. The prices were a little higher than average, but there were a large number of reasonable options to suit every budget.
Dessert was a return to form (an Amarula and pear crème brule, and an apple and toffee pudding), and by the end of the meal we both felt quite stuffed – and were surprised by the arrival of a platter of three more sweet treats each. Excess was possibly a feature of the evening – over the course of the meal I counted 8 separate servings of food – enough to leave us feeling like we’d had far more than our money’s worth.
If you have the opportunity, despite the mild disappointment of our main courses I would highly recommend giving the Greenhouse a try.
The Greenhouse / Cellars-Hohenort Hotel / Brommersvlei Road / Constantia / Tel: 021 764 5535 / Email: reservations@collectionmcgrath.com / www.cellars-hohenort.com/greenhouse
TH: ****
GS: ****
RL: ****
BH: ****
Average Rating: ****
Caveau is one of my favourite restaurants – the food never disappoints and the wine list impresses again and again. And so, when it became time to do our “C” review, it was a natural choice. Two branches, conveniently situated in the heart of Cape Town and the middle of Newlands, respectively, both offer the same excellent dining experience. We decided to visit the Heritage Square branch for our “official” review. This branch is in a well maintained historic building just off the Heritage Square parking area, and offers open air seating on a street side terrace, as well as an intimate indoors seating with dark wood and warm leather seating.
Things however got off to a rough start. I’d seen a Sushi special advertised in their newsletter, promising a 12 piece platter accompanied by 3 wines for R150 per head, so we grabbed a table in the sun and ordered away. We quickly discovered that this wasn’t available at the Caveau restaurant, but rather only at the attached Caveau Deli – and we couldn’t order it whilst seated at the outside terrace section. We moved indoors to a quaint and sunny enclosed courtyard – it looked perfect for an afternoon’s late lunch. We wanted dinner though, and with members of the party not all wanting Sushi and the limited selection available through the Deli menu, we quickly found ourselves seated back in the restaurant again, and clamouring for drinks and a menu.
The menu came along shortly, although it didn’t arrive as much as it was stood up adjacent to the table. The Caveau menu is handwritten on a blackboard and changes daily – it offers a selection of Tapas and slightly larger mains courses. Our options on the day had something for everyone, and our problem was one of too much choice. We alleviated this a bit by ordering a variety of tapas to start, and sharing them around the table. This was a great success, with nothing going unappreciated. Specifically, the saffron risotto with wild mushrooms and lamb koftas won acclaim from around the table. Come time to order mains, here was some heated negotiation around who could order the veal with saffron mash and the grilled sole with a wasabi mayonnaise – as it turned out, the sole was perfection, whilst the veal was slightly overcooked and tough.
As an establishment, Caveau is as much about the wine as it is about the food – their wine list is extensive, detailed and like the menu, it’s difficult to choose from so many appealing options. Thankfully, their wide selection of wines by the glass means you don’t have to. And at a full third of the bottle to the glass, I’d heartily recommend ordering this way – there are some fantastic discoveries to be made and you never feel cheated. In particular, the Vin d’Orrance Chardonnay and the Jordan Blanc Fume stood out, although the Tamboerskloof Shiraz has never failed to please with its welcoming fruitiness and warmth.
A comparison of the two restaurants might be in order – both offer the same excellent food and generous wine list, but the ambience at the Josephine Mill branch is a definite win. It’s fun and lively without being pretentious, whilst retaining a degree of classic elegance which is less pronounced in the Heritage Square restaurant. Josephine Mill offers an upstairs wine bar, indoors restaurant as well as outside seating adjacent to the Liesbeeck river, with an awning for protection from the worst of the rain and sun, and heating for colder evenings. Waitering staff at both are friendly, helpful and know the ever-changing menu well
Ambiance: ***
Service: ****
Food: ****
Wine: ****
Bathrooms: ***
Caveau Wine Bar & Deli - Heritage Square / 92 Bree Street / Heritage Square / Cape Town / Tel: 021 422 1367 / Email: info@caveau.co.za / www.caveau.co.za
Caveau Wine Bar & Deli - The Mill / 13 Boundary Road / Newlands / Cape Town / Tel: 021 685 5140 / Email: themill@caveau.co.za / www.caveau.co.za
