TH: ***
GS: ***
RL: ***
BH: ***½
Average Rating: ***
October sees the birthday of one of our EA Team members, and, being the food loving bunch we are, what better way to celebrate than by venturing out to a highly publicized new restaurant. The name? Maze. Starts with an M does it? Excellent. Two birds, one stone.
For those of you who haven’t heard the hype, Maze is one of the two main restaurants in the new One and Only Hotel, at the V&A Waterfront. Having closely watched the progress of the hotel, from the conceptual magazine articles to the building site itself, we were very keen to set foot inside its reportedly grand and luxurious halls.
Arriving through the artistically lit driveway gates, we were met by the valet service who parked our cars for us. Not so unusual for a hotel guest. Very impressive for a restaurant patron; we were off to a good start. Entering the lobby is again a grand experience, with double, triple, and quadruple-volume spaces creating an air of luxury, if you’ll excuse the pun. Keen to get to the restaurant, however, we declined a drink at the bar, and descended the steps to the restaurant, where we were struck by the famed wine wall - a three story glass and steel wine “cellar” shared by Nobu and Maze. Needless to say this beautiful, sparkling structure is very, very impressive. Unfortunately the best view is from outside the restaurant, and once inside the impact is rather lost. I won’t wax lyrical about the decor for too long, since this is, after all, about food not furniture. Let me just say that Maze’s interior left a little to be desired. Still on a grand scale, with a triple-volume space, the rather vivid carpet and slightly over-used over-sized light fittings made me feel a little like I was eating in a hotel lobby, or, as GS put it, as if one would not be surprised to turn around and see an airport lounge.
On being greeted by the hostess (who had asked when we booked if it was a special occasion, and took the opportunity on our arrival to wish our EA birthday girl a happy birthday - a nice touch we thought) we were were seated and offered a wine list and cocktail menu. Deciding on cocktails, we browsed the admittedly brief menu, and settled on some tasty, but not particularly memorable drinks. We did, however, enjoy the marinated olives brought to nibble on, on the side.
Next up was a selection of freshly baked, hot in the middle sourdough, walnut and olive breads (delicious) after which the menus were brought. An amusing and original touch is the “meat board” brought by the waiter after he politely informed us that it was literally a tray of raw meat, in case that might offend our delicate sensibilities. Steak is a specialty of Maze’s, and they offer several types of both fillet and rib eye. These are elegantly presented, wrapped on the outside with pristine white cloth, and displayed cut-side to you, in order to best show off the differences in colour, shape and marbling. The waiter then explains which cut is which, and what makes it special; very interesting, and not something you normally get to see.
The rest of the menu had us a little stumped, as we couldn’t figure out which items were intended as starters and which as mains. We figured the first page was a good bet for starters. RL chose West Coast mussels, which were fresh and flavourful in a garlic and herb butter, with crusty bread on the side. She reported that she really loved them, she just wishes there had been more… BH enjoyed his somewhat small crab salad, served in a martini glass, vaguely reminiscent of 70’s shrimp cocktail. GS’s smoked pork hock soup was a little disappointing, being more like a chunky vegetable broth with some floating boiled egg bits, and TH’s roast quail with a fruit chutney was tasty, but not particularly exciting, despite being rather larger than a starter usually is. Perhaps the first page is not only starters…who knew?
Main course saw three of us sampling different steaks: the Karan fillet, Karan rib-eye and Namibian rib-eye. With those we tried the peppercorn and mushroom sauces. GS tried the pan-fried hake with seafood risotto. While GS and I found the mains exceptionally salty, RL and BH disagreed, so perhaps it was just a matter of taste. The steaks were all good, but no more so than one would expect from an expensive restaurant working with quality cuts. If anything we may have been expecting something a little more, but were at least content with what we’d received. Sauces were simple, honest and creamy. GS’s hake was acceptable, but not outstanding, and the seafood risotto was overpowering after the first few mouthfuls. Sides are ordered separately, and we sampled the mashed potatoes, sherry mushrooms and garlic fries. Again, tasty, but not exceptionally so.
Dessert time came around, and the only one with room to spare was RL, who tried the Malva pudding, which smelled delicious, and tasted the same. BH and GS had a coffee and port respectively, both of which were enjoyed. The port portions are huge - expect a third of a wineglass. After desserts were cleared, we were surprised to be presented with a selection of complimentary desserts for the table, complete with a birthday candle and “Happy Birthday” icing. Very elegant, very classy, but perhaps better taken to the table before desserts were already ordered? Not wanting to look a gift horse in the mouth, however, we managed to squeeze it all in. My personal favourite would be the caramel peppermint piece of “birthday cake”, but the Baked Alaskan lollipops were a close second. The colourful macaroons, however, were not particularly great, but then they aren’t usually a favourite of ours anyway.
Overall, our experience was, with the exception of the good service and birthday treats, unremarkable. The food was pricey, with a fillet at R160, the wine list even pricier, and yet nothing we ordered really blew our minds. Perhaps being a hotel restaurant means catering for the tastes of your average tourist rather than being experimental or original. At a five star hotel, however, one would hope your average patron have a slightly more discerning palate. Whatever the reason, all we at EA can really say for Maze is that it was good, not great, and unlikely to be repeated.
Ambiance: ***
Service: ****
Food: ***
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: ****
Maze / The One & Only Cape Town / Dock Road / V&A Waterfront / Tel: 021 431 5222 / Email: maze.reservations@oneandonlycapetown.com / www.oneandonlycapetown.com
TH: ****½
GS: ****
RL: ****½
BH: ****
Average Rating: ****¼
About halfway through our meal at Jardine, I was struck with an exciting realisation. It wasn’t because the food was fantastic (which it was) or the waitors particularly good (which they were), or even because of the lively and sophisticated atmosphere. I was excited because finally, after almost a year of Eating Alphabetically, we had found a restaurant that we could give an unreservedly positive review. If there is one restaurant in Cape Town you should eat at, Jardine is it.
Situated on Bree Street opposite Boss Models (sadly quite deserted at night) Jardine’s evening vista is not particularly picturesque. Their interiors and ambiance, however, make up for this initial downside more than adequately, with a warm, chic and trendy design, suited to young sophisticates and more mature diners alike. The downstairs lounge and bar is perfect for a pre-dinner drink, with comfortable leather couches, and clean-lined bar, but the real dining experience begins when you ascend the stairs to the restaurant above.
The main dining area is simple and elegant, with nothing over-the-top or flashy. Tables are arranged in front of the open-plan kitchen, and on what was once a wrap-around balcony. The busy kitchen adds sound, movement and life to the room, which filled up remarkably from when we arrived to a nearly empty room at 7pm. A note on this topic: the kitchen is small, and bookings are staggered to avoid long waits for food. It is advisable to book in advance.
Speaking of food…let’s.Lacking the customary amuse bouche of similar establishments, diners are offered a selection of freshly baked breads from the in-house bakery while perusing the menu. Our table tried the mini baguettes and the butternut and garlic loaf, and enjoyed both. Several times. The menu itself is a single printed page. Not a huge amount of choice, but something for most tastes. Payment is calculated on a 2 course (R240) or 3 course (R280) rate, with a 3 course set menu Winter Special (R180) running until September.
Wanting to try a variety of meals to give a fair review, we declined the Winter Special in favour of the A la Carte menu. 3 courses, naturally. For starters BH had freshly steamed Saldanha Mussels, presented in a white paper bag, smothered in a delicate coconut milk, ginger and lemongrass sauce, perfectly complimenting the natural mussel flavour that is so often overpowered with cream and white wine. RL tried the Pork Belly Terrine, which she declared deliciously chunky, while still melt-in-the-mouth-y, and a great change from the smooth texture of your standard terrine. GS chose the breaded Foie Gras, which was exquisitely presented, rich, creamy and subtly flavourful. Our waiter was knowledgeable enough to suggest a selection of sweet wines to compliment the Foie Gras, and the Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Noble Late Harvest paired beautifully. I went for the Cured Salmon Carpaccio, with baby beets and nettle purée, which lent a surprisingly earthy flavour to the buttery fish: unique and delicious.
Mains courses were no less exciting, with my Yellowtail on a bed of Squid Ink Risotto being possibly the tastiest fish dish I have ever eaten. RL’s Butternut Gnocchi was fresh, light and tasty, presented almost like a salad, rather than in the traditional sauce. BH’s Rib-eye Steaks were seared to perfection resting their bed of barley. Our only complaint would be that GS’s Trio of Pork left a little to be desired, being on the ordinary/bland side by comparison.
Now maybe I’m just a typical girl in this matter, but to me dessert is the climax of the meal: the grand finale of an evening of gastronomic indulgence. Jardine’s desserts could not have been more fitting. I would have their Belgian Chocolate Hot Pot every day if my waistline wouldn’t expand like a foie gras duck. Throw away your skinny jeans, because this rich, dark, bitter, chocolate dessert of the Gods served with a dollop of hazelnut ice-cream, should be on every self-respecting woman’s to-do list, at least once a week. Before I drift off in to dreams of chocolate past, I should also tell you that the other desserts are fantastic too. The Grand Marnier Soufflé Flambé is impressively flamed at your table, and is light, airy and delicious, in true soufflé style. The Blood Orange and Liqueur Jelly made RL weak at the knees, and BH’s Cheese Platter with walnut toast and quince paste was definitely worth savouring. All in all a worthy ending to an outstanding meal.
I can’t end off without mentioning a few of the small things that can (and in this case did) make a good restaurant great. The service was impeccable: the waiters at ease, discreet, and well informed in both food and wine. Plates were brought together and cleared together with minimal fuss, and our wine glasses were never left empty (the wine list is pricey – be warned). Presentation was unique to each meal, with individually chosen plates used to compliment the dishes in shape and colour. Menus, while simply printed on white paper, were fresh, clean and well-written - something that is often overlooked. The decor was nothing spectacularly eye-catching (apart from the very red bathroom), but was intimate, comfortable and classy.
All told, Jardine is now my personal favourite Cape Town restaurant. It’s not cheap – don’t be fooled – but it is, at long last, somewhere to get real value.
Ambiance: ***
Service: ****½
Food: ****
Wine: ***½
Bathrooms: ****
Jardine Restaurant / 185 Bree Street (Corner of Bloem Street) / Cape Town / Tel: 021 424 5640 / Email: reservations@jardineonbree.co.za / www.jardineonbree.co.za
TH: **
GS: **
RL: **
BH: ***
Average Rating: **
Ginja is reputed to be one of Cape Town’s top culinary experiences, and we were expecting great things when the time came for the G slot in our alphabet. Sadly, we were far from amazed by this supposedly top notch restaurant.
From the very start, things were a little off key. On arrival we ascended the stairs to what appeared to be Ginja. Forgive us for assuming the only doorway visible would lead us to our expected destination. We were advised, once reaching the landing above, that we had misjudged the darkened, un-signposted alleyway to the right of the door, which was actually the restaurant’s “grand” entrance, and had ended up in a completely separate establishment, obviously well used to directing lost patrons to Ginja, downstairs.
After navigating the incredibly narrow, almost claustrophobic alley/entrance, however, we were met with an adequately warm and comfortable interior, if not exactly breathtaking in design. We were then lead to our table, where the earlier EA teammates were already seated on a large, high backed sofa chair, and we settled down to peruse the menu.
The first thing we noticed, was that the paper menus appeared to have been folded backwards - main courses first, then sweets, followed by a polite reminder that gratuities were not included, and starters at the very back. After weighing up the possibility that they had played on the Asian method of reading back to front, and then realising that the menu order still didn’t work, we had no choice but to put it down as a strange and very unprofessional mistake for a restaurant of this calibre to make. This, unfortunately, was not the last issue we had with the menus.
Once we’d figured out where to start, we began the somewhat tricky task of choosing what to sample from the menu. I’d love to tell you that our difficulties stemmed from too many delicious-sounding choices, and to be fair, when described by the waiters the food did indeed sound original and delicious. Unfortunately the waiters descriptions were pretty much all we had to go on, as the menu appeared to have been compiled by someone with a complete disregard for punctuation, capital letters, and all those lovely little words like “the”, “and” and “with” that make the English language…well…language. An example?
“rabbit - ballotine carrot star anise puree celeriac spinach confit leg tarragon beignet mustard cream”
Excuse us?
Thankfully the waiters made some effort in translating, and we made our choices with something a little like luck-of-the-draw.
Now perhaps we expect too much from restaurants, and perhaps we’ve merely had bad luck, but when we eat at a top notch establishment, with prices to match, I expect food that is out of the ordinary. I don’t mean strange ingredients, or unusual combinations, or towering creations so delicate and beautiful I feel guilty eating them (although there’s nothing wrong with a gorgeously presented meal). What I’m looking for at places like Ginja is food so gosh darned tasty my mouth will be watering next month just thinking about what I ate. Food that surprises me, food that excites me, food I want to tell my friends to go and try. If anyone knows where this place is, please let us know, because it sure isn’t Ginja.
But perhaps I am being overly harsh. Three out of the six “around the world in a spoon” spoons were pretty good (if lukewarm), the soft shell crab had a very nice side of Thai green curried soba noodles (which you couldn’t taste after a bite of the anchovy) and the vanilla cured Norwegian salmon had a very interesting wasabi emulsion on the side. The mains were, on a whole, unmemorable, apart from the waiter who decided announcing the lamb as “la-a-a-amb” and the rabbit as “wabbit” was professional and amusing. The best of the bunch was, however, the rabbit, which at least tasted like rabbit, as opposed to merely the accompanying sauce as many rabbit dishes do. Even dessert failed to excite us, which, for someone with a whole mouth full of sweet teeth, is saying a lot.
Time to sum up: This is normally the part of the article where we weigh up the pros and the cons, the highlights and lowlights, and tell you if, in our humble opinion, we think you should visit whichever establishment we’ve been dissecting for your reading pleasure. Unfortunately in this case all I can really say is unless extraordinarily mediocre is your thing, do yourself (and your bank balance) a favour, and give Ginja a miss.
Ambiance: **
Service: ***
Food: **
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: *
Ginja / 121 Castle Street/ Cape Town / 8001 / Tel: 021 426 2368
I love Fogey’s. If anyone asks me for a recommendation for a simple, unpretentious, but quality restaurant with sea views - this is it: Go to Fogeys.
Perched above the old Muizenberg Railway Station (still in use), you have to ascend a very grimy-looking set of stairs to get to Fogey’s. Don’t let this deter you. Once you reach the top you’ll be greeted by the rustic old-world charm of the original building, furnished with casual elegance to create an intimate “home” feel. Don’t expect porcelain floors and shining chrome here - this restaurant is all about warmth, and the old stone and brick, ancient wooden floors, and cosy colours do just that.
The enclosed balcony (shielding you from the South Easter that so often pummels the coast) looks over the railroad into the bay, which is usually full of surfers at all times of day. The interior is set up with a small “stage” from which live musicians sing, play and otherwise entertain the patrons. A favourite place for up and coming Cape Town performers to showcase their talents, the music is usually kept light, so as not to distract from conversation and company. Check out the Fogey’s website for the line-up of artists
The menu is somewhat limited - I have to mention - but the food is great quality, and there are some fantastic vegetarian options that delight even a true carnivore like me. Meals are on the upper end of average price.
Fogeys Railway House / Muizenburg Station / Main Road / Muizenburg / Cape Town / Tel: 021 788 3252 / Email: info@fogeys.co.za / www.fogeys.co.za
Posted on: February 13th, 2009 THSimons
Set under the old Oak trees and pergolas of the Groot Constantia Wine Estate, its rolling lawns, views over the vinyards and very own river, make Simons the perfect summer spot for a lazy lunch, or long dinner.
One of two restaurants offered by Groot Constantia, Simons provides both indoor and alfresco dining on the shaded terrace, as well as a picnic option served under the oaks on the rolling lawns a little way from the restaurant itself. The restaurant food is reasonably priced, and has a variety of meals available, my personal favourite being the gourmet burgers. The salads are also fresh, interesting and delicious.
There are two set picnic menus (one slightly more expensive than the other) which are good, but not as good as the main restaurant. Think pasta salads, baby potatoes, cold meats, cheeses and a brownie for desert. Picnic seating is either comfortable camping chairs, wooden picnic benches, or a blanket, if you’d prefer. Waitors are still provided for drinks orders, and bringing out the food, and while the food is provided in disposable containers, proper cutlery and crockery are provided for you to eat off of - no paper plates at these picnics!
After your meal take a wander around the estate - there are some beautiful spots hidden in the trees, including a grand old swimming pool that is now the home of small frogs, dragonflies and other pond-creatures.
Evenings at Simons are a more lively affair, with Friday Band Night, Sunday Jazz and the occasional singles night to spice up your social calendar. From all reports they are great fun, and provide a no-pressure environment to meet new people.
Definitely one of my top casual summer restaurants.
Simons / Groot Constantia / Groot Constantia Road/ Constantia / Cape Town / Tel: 021 794 1143 / Email: simons@kristensen.co.za / www.simons.co.za
Situated in an old house in the heart of Kenilworth, Jakes on Summerley is one of the few Cape Town restaurants that has maintained its style and reputation for over 30 years. Despite its age, Jakes has kept its decor and design trendy, modern and casual, thus avoiding the common pitfall of older restaurants: allowing their interiors to become dated and dreary.
The central focus of the restaurant is the small, fountained courtyard underneath an old pepper tree, perfect for those hot summer evenings. A bar area is provided on one side, for those pre-dinner cocktails, while the restaurant itself flows seamlessly from the interior into the courtyard. The style is a casual industrial-chic, with bare-brick walls, cafe tables, black, white and chrome. The patrons range from the occasional family group, to elderly couples, but are mostly young and trendy 30-somethings.
A fairly wide menu is available, from cafe food (available lunch and dinner), to your more serious steaks and seafood. Prices are reasonable, with a three course meal for two costing around R350, including the R25 corkage fee. The quality of food is, for the most part, superb, although I must recommend giving the Crispy Goujons of Linefish a miss unless you’re into fish-fingers for grownups. Jakes is famous for their Duck a l’Orange which for some odd reason is not on the menu, but still available. I could not resist trying their other speciality of deep fried ice-cream in a gingerbread crust, which was extremely rich, but worth every ounce of fat it no doubt deposited on my behind. Another memorable highlight was the smoked springbok carpaccio in a ginger and lime dressing – subtle and fresh, but somehow still earthy and dark. As GS said, “It makes you feel like a real carnivore”.
Jakes are currently running a special between 9 and 10pm, giving 25% off all cocktails, and introducing a loyalty card which will get you your 6th cocktail free. Definitely an interesting choice for a restaurant of this calibre, but perhaps they are trying to fill out their bar section in the later part of the evening.
Jake’s on Summerley/ Summerley Street / Kenilworth / Cape Town/ Tel: 021 797 0366 / info@jakes.co.za / www.jakes.co.za
I’m a long standing fan of the Wang Thai. Consistently good Thai food and decent service for a reasonable price – what more could you ask for?
Situated in the basement of a small shopping/restaurant complex just off Constantia Road next to Groot Constantia Winefarm, you’d be forgiven for missing Wang Thai altogether. Keep an eye out for the signage above the narrow staircase that descends into the darkness below. Don’t worry, you’ll be greeted with warm smiles from the Thai-dressed hostess and waiters below, and the interior of the restaurant might not have a view, but its cosy intimacy more than makes up for this. We have had the odd bad experience with damp smells coming from the display cabinets (one of the downsides of being in a basement we suspect), but this has not been the norm and moving to a different (less pungent) table was gladly accommodated. The interior could, admittedly, use updating, as it’s getting a little shabby, even in the dark.
The main draw card, however, is the food (as it should be). Don’t leave without trying the Satay Chicken skewer starter, and the Spinach Cones (a do-it-yourself wrap using spinach leaves with various fillings to choose from) are fun, fresh and delicious. Be warned – the chef likes his curries hot, and even mild Green Curries are served spicy, so as to show the true flavour of the curry. There is always the option of some extra coconut milk on the side to cool it down, if you’re not into hot food. Various non-spicy dishes are also available, from several oyster sauce dishes, to the deliciously tender ostrich medallions. Give the deserts a miss – they have never been up to the standard of the rest of the food. Coming from someone with a definite sweet-tooth, this says a lot.
A fairly standard wine list is available, and corkage is reasonable, should you choose to bring your own.
Overall a fantastic place to grab a good meal on those nights you just can’t face getting into the kitchen yourself.
Wang Thai / High Constantia House / Constantia Road / Constantia / Tel: 021 794 0022
The Forrester’s Arms, affectionately known as Forries by…well…pretty much everyone, is the epitome of a neighbourhood pub. A favourite amongst UCT students, it’s a popular place to stop off, have a draught, and watch whichever seasonal sport is playing on the numerous TV’s. On big game nights it can be crowded and raucous, so if you’re not into that, give those times a miss. When it is busy (which tends to be most evenings) it’s advisable to order drinks directly from the bar, as service is slow to non-existent unless you’re eating.
The décor is traditional with wood-panelling, several heavy, wooden bars complete with polished draught taps, and a roaring fire in winter. The main summer draw card is the pretty back garden, tree-filled and shady in typical Newlands style, and popular with young families at lunchtime. There’s also a small playground with a jungle gym for the kids (or the more intoxicated adults).
The food is fairly typical pub-style, with the surprising addition of some decent seafood dishes, such as the mussels in a cream sauce served in a potjie pot, or the deep-fried calamari strips.
Forrester’s Arms / Newlands Avenue / Newlands / Cape Town
Posted on: December 4th, 2008 THBertha’s
Situated right on the water’s edge in the Simonstown Waterfront, Bertha’s could not ask for a better setting. Unfortunately, like so many restaurants with beautiful views, they have fallen into the trap of coasting along on the reputation of their surroundings, and allowed the actual restaurant to fall into disrepair. The shabby wooden panelling, worn ceramic tile floors and scratched, table-cloth-free café tables are far more suited to an old-age home dining room, than a reputable (and not altogether inexpensive) restaurant.
If, however, you can ignore the dilapidated décor and focus on the (lime green faux leather) menu, you will notice a wide variety of food on offer, from seafood to steaks to burgers and pastas. Keep an eye out for their daily specials. I took advantage of the “Kilo of Prawns” and my R99 could not have been put to a better use. In general the prices are what one would expect from an average city steak house – think around R115 for a fillet with sauce.
The food is good, not exceptional, but the views are beautiful, the atmosphere casual and lively, and the service friendly and fast. Somebody get this restaurant a makeover, because under the grunge lies a gem ready to be uncovered.
Bertha’s / Quayside Centre / 1 Wharf Road / Simonstown / Western Cape / Tel: (021) 786 2138/48 / www.berthas.co.za
TH: ****
GS: *** ½
RL: ****
BH: ****
Average Rating: ****
Amidst the madness of daily life, and the excitement of getting the Eating Alphabetically site up and running, November has rolled in, almost unnoticed by us busy EA bees. With it have come the first hints of a hot (and windy) Cape Town summer to come, the earliest of the Christmas-explosion shop-displays, and, of course, the letter “B” slot in our alphabet of gastronomy.
After our less than memorable experience at Aubergine, we were searching for somewhere we’d love (lest you, our readers, think us overly critical and negative). We decided to pick a restaurant that was not just new, hip and happening on the Cape Town food scene, but also came with several very complimentary recommendations from friends and acquaintances alike. Bizerca did not disappoint.
Do not let the name fool you. Far from the exotic barbarian war images that may come to mind (or a particular song from the movie “Clerks”, if you’re a fan), Bizerca proved to be a neat, modern, corner Bistro, tucked away in a pedestrian thoroughfare in the middle of Cape Town Foreshore. Granted, not the most bustling of night life locations, but at least parking is readily available.
On first approach the restaurant appears a little disappointing, but give it time to grow on you. As you sit and interact with the owner and staff, the personality begins to shine through. The décor is simple (if a bit austere): white poly-prop chairs, black and white pattern-printed café tables, exposed A/C ducting, Perspex panelled garage door entrance, glazed wine cellar, slightly incongruous chandelier, an open hatch to the kitchen, gloss-sealed screed floors, and orange accent lighting around the shopfront-style windows. You can see that a real effort has been made to make this place look good, but the evening ambiance still left a little to be desired, with the décor suggesting a better daytime feel. The patrons were a strange mix of middle-aged couples and tourists, with us being, yet again, the youngest table. Altogether not exactly what we were expecting.
This is, perhaps, the time to give a little background history on how Bizerca came about. Run by a husband and wife team (Laurent and Cyrillia), it’s very much a family establishment. Originally based in the Blue Mountain region outside Sydney, Australia, the couple ran a highly acclaimed guest house, combining Laurent’s French background, with Cyrillia’s South African. After a decision to return the family to Cyrillia’s homeland of S.A. the concept of Bizerca was born – they had to be a little berserk to just up and move everything, right? We, for one, are glad they did.
The menu is displayed on mobile chalk boards, and changes nightly, or so we are told. It is presented to you personally by Cyrillia, who not only explains the dishes (for those of us who may not be familiar with some of the French terms used), but does so in such a way that everything sounds fantastic. We certainly had difficulty choosing. Despite Laurent’s international chef training, do not expect haute cuisine-type tiny portions of meticulously displayed, insubstantial works of culinary art. While the food is far from mundane or unattractive, it is not overly precious in arrangement, and portions are healthy, if not huge.
European in style and ingredients, with personal twists we assume come from Australian and/or South African influences, we were definitely impressed with the quality of food on offer.
The Pig Trotter starter (a Bizerca specialty – de-boned and moist beyond belief) was sublime, the Raw Salmon Salad (another specialty) incredibly fresh and flavourful and the Duck Pate (not duck liver pate) unexpectedly difficult to share. The Ostrich Carpaccio alone was sub-par and this only because of the comparative deliciousness of the other entrees.
Main course too, did not disappoint. An original combination of minted lamb, on a bed of ratatouille, with fondant potatoes and harrissa was delicious, marred only a little by the meat, which, while mostly tender and moist, had some slightly fatty areas and the occasional chewy vein. In comparison, the Veal Shoulder blew us away. This tender, melt-in-your mouth dish was complimented perfectly with the unexpected pine fruit jus and mash. The beef fillet too was succulent and tender, although one shouldn’t expect anything less from an establishment of this calibre. The Duo of Duck was perhaps a little dry on the breast (as duck often is) but the leg portion was moist, tender and tasty, and the stack of thinly sliced pear and accompanying baby potatoes complimented the flavours well.
A fairly extensive wine list is available, although the average price of between R150-R250 per bottle (with a handful of cheaper options, and plenty far more expensive) is perhaps a little on the pricey side. Wines are also available by the glass, and are displayed on the back of the chalkboard menu, as we discovered a little too late in the evening. Our cocktail aperitifs were pleasant enough, but not the best we’ve had, so we’d recommend sticking to the wine.
Finally: desert. The ladies of our party, typically, could not resist the soft centred chocolate brownie with berry sorbet and white chocolate crème caramel, while BH had the renowned Apple Tart Fine, ordered the requisite 30 minutes before (it is made up from scratch on order). The apple tart was perfectly balanced, not too sweet, not too tart, and delicately flavoured - fantastic with its Vanilla pod ice cream. Be warned, the chocolate brownie is very dark, and very rich, and not to everyone’s taste. RL found it too bitter for her liking, and ended up sweetening it with the berry sorbet. If, however, you like your chocolate black as night, and as sweet as Marilyn Manson on a bad day, you can’t afford to miss this hot, gooey piece of heaven on a plate. The berry sorbet and crème caramel also deserve a mention, as they were both very good, and beautifully displayed. GS chose rather to sample the Port, but was not entirely impressed with the fairly light and fruity result of his choice.
Before wrapping up, a necessary word on the bathrooms: take a compass. The directions of “outside and to the right” are so far from sufficient it’s as if they are trying to get patrons lost in the maze of back corridors that stand between them and their destination. While there are small signs leading the way to the single, unimpressive, unisex stall, and one disabled stall, they have failed to consider labelling the route back, and more than one of our party was left to open door after door, hoping to find a familiar passageway. Just so you know: the door marked “exit” does not lead back to the restaurant, but to the fire escape.
Overall Bizerca is a fun, fairly casual dining experience, well worth the praise it commonly receives. We had a wonderful meal for a fair price, enjoyed the personal attention of one of the proprietors, and had generally good, friendly service from the waiting staff. Our only recommendation would be that until Bizerca becomes more widely known, it may be better at lunch time, when the atmosphere is likely to be livelier.
Ambiance: ***
Service: ***½
Food: ****
Wine: **½
Bathrooms: **
Bizerca Bistro / Jetty Street / Foreshore / Cape Town / Tel: 021 418 0001
