TH: ***
GS: ***
RL: **
BH: ***
Average Rating: ***
This month, we found ourselves faced with a difficult situation: where in the world were we going to find a restaurant that began with “X”? While I’m sure they are actually out there, somewhere in the world, alas Cape Town has none. For this reason, we decided that the letter “X” would become our open choice month. We could pick any restaurant we wanted, provided it was having some sort of special tasting evening. In the case of Pastis, on offer was a 6 Course Whiskey and Food Pairing.
Having often attended food and wine pairings, we thought this would make a nice change, especially as TH and GS have started exploring whiskey in all seriousness. BH and I were also excited as we thought this Pastis was linked to the overseas brand. Unfortunately we have since realised that this is not the case, although clearly our local Constantia Pastis has tried to model its brand after its distant inspiration.
Alas this as far as I imagine the comparison goes as it seems as though little thought has gone into the Constantia Pastis. We found the interiors worn and half-hearted and the service, although friendly, was somewhat rough. The bar area, for instance, looked more like a storage room of mismatched “economy” furniture with no attention to placement and it took 20 minutes for us to receive our pre-dinner beers when we were 1 of 2 tables in the room. Not a great start, especially as we were already a little annoyed with their terrible online map and directions.
Never-the-less we were excited for our whiskey / food pairing, and happily moved to the dining room. Here I must say that Jonathan Miles from the Whiskey Academy was absolutely brilliant. He selection of whiskeys was varied and interesting, while his charismatic and entertaining personality, not to mention knowledge and personalised anecdotes really brought the whiskeys to life. Based mostly on this gentleman we found our evening sociable and enjoyable.
It is a pity that this was somewhat marred by the unprofessional way in which Pastis handled the evening. To begin with, after each course diners were required to pack their own glasses into a large green plastic packing crate that the staff brought round. And, although the dishes on selection were largely tasty, presentation and timing were horrific. The first course arrived on plastic plates, and 3 hours later we had only just made it through the 4th course. This really shouldn’t happen when guests are paying R250 a head and are required to prebook, giving the restaurant ample warning as to how many to cater for.
In some cases, Pastis had clearly tried to prepare ahead of time, but didn’t quite hit the nail on the head as the 1st and 2nd courses looked a little like they had been standing out for several hours. Although the smoked salmon of the 1st course worked well with the whiskey, and tasted good, it was dried out. The 2nd course on the other hand tasted a little stale and, although not on a plastic plate, was presented a little like fancy cat food. Not a great simile for salmon tartare.
It must be said however, that whoever planned the dishes did a good job. On the whole, they matched well with the whiskey selections and each brought out the flavours within the other. If presentation, timing and a bit of polish in the service could be worked out, Pastis could have a winner on their hands.
Will I personally try Pastis again? Probably not - particularly under similar circumstances - but this does not mean they wouldn’t be a great location for a family evening out or quick drinks in their outside courtyard area for those living close-by.
Ambiance: ***½
Service: **½
Food: **½
Wine: N/A
Bathrooms: **
Pastis French Bistro / Shop 12 / High Constantia Center / Constantia Main Road / Tel: 021 794 8334 / www.pastisbrasserie.co.za
TH: ***½
GS: ***
RL: ***
BH: ***½
Average Rating: ***½
Wild Woods, at the base of Chapman’s Peak in Hout Bay, is the new venture by Peter Geoff Wood of Kitchen Cowboy fame.
Hout Bay is usually a day out for most Cape Tonians but Peter’s reputation tempted us into a mid-week excursion into the Deep South. In all honesty, Hout Bay isn’t that far away, especially if you’re living on the Atlantic Seaboard, and traveling 30min isn’t going to kill you…if you know the trip is worth it.
Naturally, we were expecting great things from a local celebrity chef so we may have gone in with an unfairly critical eye, but other than a few small things, we found our experience to be very enjoyable.
The restaurant interior is a little disappointing, although I guess it is casual and understated, well-suited to its location. The fireplace adds a lot to the space, becoming quite a focal point. There is a slot window into the kitchen but I get the impression it’s more for the chefs to check on the patrons rather than to be on show. A major negative is that the restaurant is very bright. There are 2 very strong ceiling lights that make the space feel a little like a canteen, largely obliterating the intimate feel of the fireplace. The ambiance was a bit lacking, but it was a quiet night. It has the potential to be really nice on a weekend, if busier. The restrooms border on too rustic, even for the casual feel of the restaurant.
The service at Wild Woods is very attentive. Our waiter, although casual, was very efficient and never let us feel abandoned. Although RL felt it was almost too much, our waiter faithfully asked each one of us how our meal was, not just a simple, “everything okay?”, but a “Ma’am, how are your Mussels? Sir, how are your Croquettes?…” I quite liked the personal touch it added but I think it was largely due to his light-hearted nature. By dessert, it was a bit of a running joke.
The wine list has a good selection, although a bit on the pricey side, it did have some cheaper options, including a very reasonable house red available by the glass and by the 500ml carafe. It was also a nice change to see a selection of artisan beers for those looking for a bit of variety. These beers are perfectly suited to the menu, since it was more traditional fare, done extremely well.
Wild Woods offers a daily menu, as proven by the date at the top of the menu, which promotes seasonal favourites and fresh produce. The menu, while small, offers something for everyone and it was pleasant to experience a small menu that wasn’t just the same ingredients added to a different meat choice. Each dish is different, offering their own unique combination of flavours. Another joy of the small menu is that between the 4 of us, we were able to sample almost everything on the menu.
RL grabbed the Steamed Saldanha Mussels before the rest of us had even looked at the menu. Served with a white wine and cream sauce, the dish was full of light, delicate flavours but be warned; the portion was huge. TH had the Tagliatelle to start, with a creamy wild mushroom and truffle oil sauce. The flavours were subtle, combined beautifully and the perfect starter size. Polished off quickly, the only complaint was that it wasn’t presented very well. GS had the Duck Liver and Chorizo; the smell of which made my mouth water. GS said it was really tasty and, again, a very large portion. It was served with a tasty, savoury tomato-y sauce that tied it together nicely and, although it did needed a touch of pepper, the salt was dead on. All in all, a good, hearty dish with lots of meat flavours. In fact, the toast is came with was necessary to soak up every last drop! I had the Veal Croquettes with horseradish sauce. They were crispy on the outside, and not at all oily, with moist, shredded veal inside. Delicious by themselves, dripping them in the sauce just elevated the dish to another level. The sauce was so good, when I finished my croquettes, I resorted to dipping my wild rocket garnish.
Having settled in and being impressed with our Starters, we moved onto Mains. Please note, everything is made from scratch (or so the menu claims) and Mains ordered without Starters can take up to 40min. RL had the Lamb Rogan Josh Pie, wanting something a little spicy. It had a nice home-cooked feel, hearty and warm although not as spicy as a usual Rogan Josh curry. The huge pile of wild rocket it was served with was a little spare; not really a salad, but too big to be garnish. It seemed a little arbitary but did add colour to the plate. It was one of the prettiest presented pies I’ve seen. TH had the Aged Chalmar Rump, with Café du Paris butter, chips and rocket salad. The meat was good quality, cooked to a prefect medium rare. The portion was a good size and the herby butter seasoned to perfection. The steak, although not melt-in-your-mouth, was still good. The chips were more like small wedges; soft and moist inside, lightly crispy outside. The rocket “salad” suffered from the same problem as the pie; basically rocket with some olive oil, needing seasoning or dressing to make it special. The presentation simple, honest and unpretentious. GS had the Veal Brisket Bourguignon, a traditional dish with meat and mash, surrounded with a gravy that had some mushrooms in it for character. The Brisket was drippingly tender and really melted in your mouth. The mash and gravy was nicely creamy but once again, needed some pepper to bring it to life. Being a very traditional meal, it wasn’t amazing or exciting but tasty and well executed. I had the Roast Duck Breast with roast tomatoes, grilled baby marrow, wilted greens and béarnaise sauce. Each ingredient was prepared well, with strong individual flavours, but when combined magic was created. The tartness of the tomato played off the sharp marrow flavour, complemented with the wilted greens and elevated to a new level by the creamy béarnaise… then throw in slices of moist duck breast and you have a dish that you want to keep stuffing into your mouth.
After the good sized Starter and Mains, we had to share desserts but in retrospect that was a good idea. RL and I shared the Soufflé Beignet with vanilla ice cream and hot chocolate sauce. RL found it a little disappointing, but liked the concept, wishing the soufflé itself had a bit more spice or sweetness. Personally, I enjoyed the dish; it was surprising light, the ice cream was creamy and the chocolate sauce was rich but not too much. TH and GS shared the Plate of Cookies. The presentation was a bit boring but was a nice end to the meal. Probably too large for one person, the plate had 3 biscotti, 4 pieces of fudge and 4 pieces of brownie. The brownies were sordidly good, as GS put it, not overly moist or sweet, just full of dark cocoa and nuts with a hint of something like Cointreau. The biscotti would go down well with coffee but still crunchy and good on their own; nice and nutty and again with a nice citrus zing to it. The fudge was very traditional, if a little sugary in texture (almost crunchy), but tasty.
After such a positive experience, and being owned by a celebrity chef, you’d probably assume that you’d need to sell a kidney to afford to eat at Wild Woods but, quite simply, the restaurant is very reasonably priced. The most expensive thing on the menu was the Rump Steak, at R110. In the end, with a 3-course meal, a bottle and a half of wine and including tip, the bill worked out to R262.50 per person. Add in the petrol cost to get there and it’s still cheaper than dining at most high-end Cape Town CBD establishments.
In short, Wild Woods is all it promised to be; casual and unpretentious with a changing menu of well-constructed meals at a reasonable price.
Ambiance: **
Service: ***½
Food: ****
Wine: ****
Bathrooms: **
Wild Woods / Main Road /next to the Chapman’s Peak Hotel / Hout Bay / Cape Town / Tel: 021 791 1166 / Email: info@wildwoods.co.za / www.wildwoods.co.za
TH: ****
GS: ***
RL: ***½
BH: ***½
Average Rating: ***½
When I think of the now-not-so-new Cape Quarter in Green Point, I always tend to think “coffee”, “breakfast” or shopping for expensive décor items. Rarely do I think of going there for dinner. This month however, we decided to test just that.
I have to admit that I wasn’t expecting much, but greatly enjoyed dining at Vanilla and left rather impressed. The interiors were quirky, pretty, intimate and resonated well with the name itself. Service was impeccible and the food delicious. All in all, I found that it was incredibly easy to forget we were in what is essentially a glorified shopping centre.
From the moment we entered the door, we were greeted with professionalism and genuine interest. I honestly felt that the manager was pleased to welcome us to his restaurant, and this feeling continued on to our interactions with other staff. Granted, it was a little quiet, but I would like to believe this level of attentiveness is still in effect when the restaurant is busier. I would also like to note that despite the lack of full tables, not once did I feel the restaurant was empty. Rather, it had a chilled, relaxed environment that we enjoyed in comfort.
Luckily, the attention to detail that is found in the service and interiors extends to the menu itself. Not only is it beautifully designed, with a clean, modern flair, but the dishes offer a wide selection of tastes and combinations.
For Starters, GS chose the Stuffed Quail, which he found extremely tasty - well prepared, firm but not tough, with subtle flavours that combined well. Needless to say, he cleaned his plate. TH tucked into her Mushroom Gnocchi remarking that it was a good overall dish, with good lemon flavours. Her only concern was that it is a very large portion for a Starter, so it is rather fulling. BH also noted that his Poached Pear Salad was on the large side, and although it wasn’t the most exciting Starter he’s ever had, it was beautifully presented, with good colours, and he did enjoy it. My own Butternut Soup of the Day was pleasant, with a sweet taste, but I’m not sure if I would go back for it. Never-the-less, a good beginning to the meal and the Mains proved to be even better.
GS’s Sirloin was described as once again extremely tasty, with tender meat and an excellent jus. The mash that accompanied the dish was moist and creamy, while the onion tarte tatin, although a little confusing in combination with the rest of the dish, did pass the taste test. GS’s only concern was a little bit of fat and toughness in one section of the meat. Once he cut this out however, he was on his way. TH also had a little trouble with some fatty sections in her Oxtail, but again, once she moved passed this, found the rest of the meat fall-off-the-bone tender. The sauce was rich and sticky, while the honey vegetables complimented the meat flavours well. This was all brought together with a delicious sweet potato mash. BH however, declared his own bacon mash the winner! Said mash came with his Roast Pork Belly, which was cooked to perfection, presented well and topped with crackling. What more could a man want? My own Gnocchi, the larger portion of TH’s starter was delicious. The gnocchi themselves were larger than usual, but had a great texture and a wonderful, creamy sauce. Definitely a dish I would recommend.
As with the Starters, Main portions were large and filling. BH and I decided to take one for the team however and managed to squeeze in the Apple and Rhubard Crumble. This proved to be an excellent decision as the dessert was delicious!
Absolutely sated, and very happy, we were further pleased to note that the bill didn’t break the bank. Granted, there are more expensive items on the menu, but there is enough range to suit the budget of most.
All I can say it settle in and enjoy the dining as you appreciate good food.
Ambiance: ***
Service: ***½
Food: ****
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: ***
Vanilla / Shop 17 / The Square / Cape Quarter / 27 Somerset Road / Green Point / Tel: 021 421 1391 / Email: reservations@vanillarestaurant.co.za / www.vanillarestaurant.co.za
BH: ***
RL: ***
TH: ***
GS: ****
Average Rating: ***
Finding a suitable restaurant to review, whose name starts with a “U” is difficult letter. So the Eating Alphabetically crew stretched out a little, and went to &Union for some top-quality beer and dressed-up pub food. Situated on Bree Street, just next to heritage square, it’s well placed to cater to the town crowd with it’s central location and plentiful parking.
&Union’s operational concept is “Pig and Beer”, and they’ve executed this well. Don’t expect a traditional restaurant - &Union is far closer to a pub in atmosphere. Seating is available in the form of large wooden benches (prepare to share with strangers), set up under a large tent that kept the insides warm despite the cold night outside. On the evening we were there, the place was busy (although not packed), with queues to order and many people left standing. The large screens showing the soccer certainly gave them something to watch, though. A warning - if you wanted a quiet meal in private, stay away.
Initially, things were confusing as we entered. The entrance wasn’t clearly visible, nobody greeted us on entry and we were left to find ourselves somewhere to sit and figure out that you needed to fetch a menu from the bar. These are only problems for first-time visitors, but we still felt a little lost for direction. The crowd inside was quite varied, and the atmosphere definitely casual and relaxed. The table sharing meant that quite often you’d see strangers chatting and mingling in true “pub style”.
A major portion of &Unions claim to fame is their line-up of “artisanal” beers. BH and I both had the Brewers & Union Dark Lager - smooth, rich, softly bitter with a nutty core, it went down beautifully. At R40 for a 500ml bottle, it isn’t the cheapest beer on the market, but the premium you pay is rewarded with a quality product. TH (definitely not a beer drinker), stepped out of her comfort zone and drank the Collective São Gabriel Berne Amber. She described it as light and sweet, extremely smooth and very drinkable, even for her. She enjoyed it enough to ask for a second!
All ordering for both food and drinks happens at the bar. A number of pub-style food options are available, from grilled pork sausages in traditional German style to cheese boards. TH and RL both had the “Juicy Saucisson” board (R60), and spent a while laughing whilst trying to pronounce the name. Consisting of a large pork sausage, some bread, a small dish of tapas-style chips and a baby salad, it was described as tasty and filling, but quite oily. The sausage specifically was “tasty, salty, YUM”. I ordered the Prego roll (R60) on the advice of the Bafana-attired diners we shared a table with, but was a little less enamoured of it than they were. The roll itself, topped with ham from the charcuterie was tasty, with a flame grilled smokiness that went well with the marinade, but the meat was tougher than I’d have liked. It did bring out a notable fruitiness in my dark lager that had been missing before - a good pairing. The tapas chips were a little flavourless, although the baby salad was light and crispy, with a subtle lemon-basil dressing. Be warned - the accompanying chilli for the Prego roll was devilishly hot - use with care. Lastly, BH consumed the charcuterie board (R65), providing him with a selection of cured and smoked meats with accompanying salad and ciabatta. Good portions, and a meal that was appreciably simple and straightforward. Overall, it was good for pub food and for the price.
At the end of the day, &Union has a strong concept and keeps to it. Pub food, lifted to a higher level. The food prices were reasonable, and the beer expensive but good. I can’t say I’d go back for the food or the beer alone… but as a vibey location to watch a sports game or an alternative to the usual lunch-time spots, it certainly has a place.
Food: ***
Ambiance: ***
Beverages: ****
Bathrooms: **½
Service: N/A
&Union Beer Salon and Charcuterie / St Stephen’s Church / 110 Bree Street / Cape Town / Tel: 021 422 2770 / Email: pigandbeer@andunion.com / www.andunion.com/AndUnion/Union.html
TH: ****
GS: ****
RL: ****
BH: ***½
Average Rating: ****
After looking through our options for “T” the Eating Alphabetically team decided it was time to shake things up a little, go a little further out of our usual restaurant territories, and try something new. For this reason we not only went all the way out to the winelands, but we did it during…wait for it…the day! Yes, it’s true. We did lunch. Darling.
And what a nice lunch it was.
Terroir, the restaurant on Kleine Zalze winefarm, came with several recommendations, and we weren’t disappointed. We were lucky to pick one of those perfect, clear, sunny, winter days, and being seated on the terrace at Terroir overlooking the huge oaks and distant mountains could not have been a better choice.
The winelist featured a good selection, and not only of the Kleine Zalze wines. These were, however, the most reasonably priced, which is not unexpected when dining on the farm of origin. We selected an unusual Kleine Zalze Gamay Noir – a chilled red, making a lovely alternative to white for lazy daytime drinking.
Sipping on this, we perused the menu and faced the daunting task of choosing our meals. Terroir is currently running a winter set menu special (check the details in our Specials section) which gives you around 3 choices for each course, with 2 and 3 courses at R165 and R195 respectively. While the winter menu selection is mouth-watering, matters become even more difficult when one is presented with the a la Carte Menu, since substitution is welcome, with prices being adjusted accordingly.
We finally settled on starters, with standout dishes being RL’s Gorgonzola Gnocci, with a deliciously subtle, cheesy undertone and GS’s confit duck. The duck is perhaps due a special mention, as its flavours were perfectly matched, with each item on the plate delicious alone and in combination – a rare treat.
Mains were no less pleasurable. The Winter Menu Fillet was tender and cooked to a perfect medium rare. Perhaps a little flavourless, as fillet often is, this was more than made up for by the rich and creamy risotto it was served on, and the simply divine, rich, dark, meaty jus that dressed the plate. The a la Carte Menu’s Fillet, too, was enjoyed – again, perfectly cooked and more flavourful alone that its Winter Menu competition. Its combination of salty sauce and mushrooms, with the sweeter butternut was BHs favourite. RL chose to sample the Tomato Tart Tatin. She loved the light, fresh flavours and the fact that while tasty, it still felt healthy to eat. GS’s Venison, off the a la Carte Menu, was perhaps the only disappointing dish, as it was lacking in flavour and could have used some sort of sauce to add character.
All in all we were thoroughly satisfied with our meals so far, and were enjoying the atmosphere and views so much that we decided to order another bottle of wine to enjoy while we looked over the dessert menu and watched the clutch of baby bantams pecking around the grounds.
RL, who declined the wine, decided to try the Black Forest Soufflé instead. Beautifully presented, and decadently chocolaty and rich, you may want to share this fairly large dessert between two. We ordered a cheese platter, to round off the meal for the rest of us, and were pleasantly surprised by the nice mix of cheeses, jams, and delicious fruity, nutty bread. Again a fairly large portion, and possibly best shared.
All told, we really enjoyed our afternoon at Terroir, and were one of the last lunch tables to leave. Service was decent, if not spectacular, food was consistently good, and prices were reasonable, especially on the Winter Menu.
Pick a nice sunny day and take a drive out to Kleine Zalze. You won’t regret it.
Ambiance: ***½
Service: ***
Food: ****
Wine: ****
Terroir / Kleine Zalze Wine Estate / Strand Road (R44) / Stellenbosch / Tel: 021 880 0717 / Email: terroir@kleinezalze.co.za / www.kleinezalze.com/terroir.html
TH: ***
GS: ***
RL: ***
BH: ***
Average Rating: ***
As one of the great promises presented by the recently opened 15 on Orange Hotel comes Savour restaurant.
RL & I, eager to see if the hotel lives up to its reputation, arrived early for dinner. This meant we could have a good look around and marvel at all things shiny and new. 15 on Orange really has gone to town with the designer touches and, from the caesarstone red carpet to the gold couches in the lifts from the parking, the hotel is beautiful. Sadly, we didn’t get to see the rooms but they’re rumoured to be pimped out with the latest technology and designer style.
Of course, this slick feel has been carried through to the hotel’s restaurant, Savour, and bar, Murano Bar.
Being early, we decided to have a cocktail at Murano Bar to while away the time and to continue the marvelling. The first thing you’ll notice is the glass link curtain which some suspect to be the inspiration of the bar’s name. The 10 000 glass links were all imported from Italy, although I’m not sure if they are indeed from Murano, the isle famed for their glass making. Regardless, the effect is quite dazzling. In the middle of the glass, above the bar is a stunning 12 seater private “room” which demands free flowing champagne. All sweeping curves and sexy lighting, the Murano Bar is very suave and James Bond, so naturally, RL & I felt quite comfortable, well… sort of.
So, back to the reviewing… The cocktail menu includes all the usuals but all quite pricey. I had a Bourbon Sours for R65 and RL had a simple Lime & Lemonade for R22. I was feeling in the mood for a whiskey but most were R80 and upwards with the only “cheap” option being Bushmills for R40. That said, the bar snacks of Crunchy Corn, olives and biltong were very nice.
Having finished our drinks, we wondered up to Savour.
Again, decorated with shiny this and designer that, the overall effect is a reflection of the upmarket nature of the hotel as a whole. It’s a little like being in a magazine ad… in a good way. The menu is not overly long but the dishes seem to cover a wide spread of international and local dishes, most likely a reflection of Chef Michael Meyepa’s worldly experience coming from The World cruise liner.
That said, the restaurant was quiet… very quiet. Even when we left at 10pm, there were only 3 tables. As a result, I think Chef Michael took the night off or wasn’t not paying close enough attention because, regardless of promising menu, something was lacking.
In addition to the normal Starters, there is a selection of Salads and Soups as well as Flat Breads, which are fundamentally pizzas but too big for a starter and too small for a real meal, which make a good shared starter. RL had the Prosciutto di Parma, parma ham with gorgonzola baked figs, which lacked the sweetness in the figs to cut through the gorgonzola and compliment the parma. GS had the Maryland Crab Cakes which were a little bland and unexciting. Wanting to try something different, TH & I shared the Venetian Flat Bread. TH found it tasted a little too much like canned tomato but I quite enjoyed it; it was uncomplicated and unassuming. It didn’t blow my mind and needed a little salt but I could tuck in without too much thought. While the starters didn’t do much to excite us, they were all very pretty.
For mains, TH had the rack of Karoo Lamb, GS had the Osso Bucco, I had the Pan-fried Gemsbok & RL had the Mushroom Risotto. TH found the lamb difficult to get off the bone, although the meat was tender, and the sauce reminded her of a Royco instant sauce. The Osso Bucco, a stew of braised veal shin, looked good but again failed to deliver. GS said it was full of flavours but there was no overall “wow” moment. My Gemsbok, while not amazing it was a good meal, a solid 7/10. RL’s risotto however, unlike the others, was great, not the flavourless wallpaper paste some restaurants serve. Full of flavour and with a good texture, it was certainly the best choice of the evening.
It seems that in our last few reviews, we’ve all been stuffed by the time dessert comes around. So, in an attempt to reverse this trend, we decided to share something. The Chocolate Assiette is an assortment of chocolatey goodness with a Cassis macaroon, pistachio truffle, a scoop of velvety ice cream and pave. Considering the earlier courses, this was a good thing, making sure that the evening ended on a high note, mostly.
Savour, while beautifully designed and with a menu showing so much promise, lacked any real substance, certainly nothing to justify the prices. It’s one of RL’s pet hates when the starters cost almost as much as the mains and there are very few mains under R120. That may not seem too bad, and is certainly in line with the upper tier of restaurants in Cape Town, but Savour just didn’t deliver. Likewise, being asked to pay R130 for 800ml of Voss water seems like madness. Yes, it’s all the way from Finland but still… even paying R33 for Nestle water is kinda crazy.
But I digress, R1112 for a complete supper for 4, with wine, is far from the most expensive meal we’ve had so in truth, this doesn’t bother me so much. I think what bothers me is that there is so much potential that is being squandered. Few restaurants have the budgets to create as beautiful a location and few restaurants can secure a world class chef yet these restaurants are able to deliver a product that make you want to tell all you friends and family… and complete strangers. Savour does not.
I think Savour has made some big shoes to fill and given time, I can only hope they rise up to the challenge of bringing yet another world class culinary experience to our beautiful city.
Ambiance: ***
Service: ****
Food: ***
Wine: ***
Savour at 15 On Orange / Corner of Orange and Greys Pass / Gardens /Cape Town / Tel: 021 469 8037 / Email: reservations@15onorangehotel.com / www.africanpridehotels.com
TH: **
GS: **
RL: **
BH: ***
Average Rating: **¼
Friday saw the Eating Alphabetically team venturing out to review restaurant “R”. We’d had a bit of a swing and miss start, as it turns out restaurants such as Rive Gauche and Rozenhof have recently closed, or changed their names, but were still fairly positive about our third choice; Royal Kitchen in Kloof street.
Although their website was…let’s call it, functional at best, the image of the restaurant suggested that they had avoided the usual Asian restaurant trap of simply throwing some fans and silk banners on the wall and had invested some real time into making it look professional. We were intrigued. Although we weren’t expecting Haiku, we had hopes for our evening out.
Alas, the problem with hoping, is that it’s so easy to be disappointed. To start with, parking on Kloof street was horrific. This was somewhat to be expected, but having to drive around for 20min, and then park 4 blocks away never puts anyone in a good mood. There is some garage parking under the building, but you have to have a long discussion with the guard at the door, and then hold thumbs that your car can actually make the extreme slope without scratching your bumper. Our car couldn’t make it, hense the long walk, but GS and TH’s could, which also meant they managed to avoid the rain later. Were BH and I a little bitter? Perhaps, but you try walking 4 blocks in heels!
Never-the-less, we made it, and were determined to enjoy some authentic Asian cuisine. Again, our hopes were lifted, as the restaurant had several Asian tables; and it’s always a good sign if the restaurant is popular with authentic people of the culture. Unfortunately, we later decided that they get to order from an entirely different menu from the rest of us, as the back of the menu is entirely in Chinese, and doesn’t seem to correspond in any way to the English version. More’s the pity, because our options, although sounding good, were incredibly boring when they actually arrived.
For starters, we shared an array of Steamed Prawn Dumplings (which we actually enjoyed), Vegetable Springrolls (which lacked anything other than cabbage), Deep-fried Pork Riblets (which we’re pretty sure were the worst parts of the meat and very fatty) and finally, some bread balls filled with beef and ostrich (which were so memorable, I can’t even remember what they were called). Thankfully, although we ordered 2 portions of this, only 1 arrived.
Ok, so not a great start, but maybe the mains would be better. Who doesn’t enjoy Cashew Nut Chicken? Apparently, we don’t. Particularly when it’s about as boring as the Vegetable Springrolls. Which isn’t good, considering that the Cashew Chicken was one of the better main meals. The Clay Pot Beef was just as memorable, while the Orange Duck was virtually inedible; the orange sauce flavourless and the meat itself was actually a combination of fat and skin. What little duck meat there was had an oily sheen like corned beef, or as GS put it, was “like sunshine on an oily rain puddle”. The only meal we enjoyed was the Sweet and Sour Pork, which I have to say, had a delicious sauce and nice, crunchy vegetables. This however, yet again brought us to 1 dish out of 4 that we actually enjoyed. Even with the supremely cheap final bill we received, which also covered various drinks, wine and some desserts, this simply isn’t acceptable. It made us long for those fan and silk banner hung Asian restaurants that at least offer you flavour and character, if not a trendy Kloof street location.
On top of all this, the lights kept changing in brightness, sometimes making us feel as though we were dining in a canteen, a child was wailing (although happily) from the kitchen, and the service, although friendly and eager, didn’t inspire confidence.
In my, granted, not-so-humble opinion, I would leave this restaurant well alone.
Ambiance: **½
Service: ***
Food: *½
Wine: **
Royal Kitchen Asian Restaurant / 1st Floor / Kloof Street Junction / 115 Kloof Street / Gardens / Tel: 021 422 1888/3888 / Email: info@royalkitchen.co.za / www.royalkitchen.co.za
TH: ***
GS: ***
RL: **
BH: **½
Average Rating: **½
It was a clear, warm summer’s evening that saw the Eating Alphabetically crew on its way to Q. We didn’t expect much from Quay Four to be honest. So many Waterfront restaurants coast along on views and position, and it’s rare to find one that puts much effort into really fantastic food. Nonetheless, our Q options were limited, and we were looking forward to a pleasant evening enjoying the ocean breeze and good company at the very least.
Quay Four is practically a Cape Town institution. Enjoying its quay-side position almost since the inception of the Waterfront, the ground floor pub is well known (and loved) for its fish and chips, cold beer and live music. Upstairs, the “elegant dining” section is, however, somewhat less well known and, from our experience, far less frequented.
There is very little drama heading into Upstairs. A simple, wooden staircase next to the entrance to the pub takes you up to the very plain, slightly dated interior of the restaurant. The views are typically Waterfront: bobbing yachts, lights reflecting on the water, and the occasional sleepy seagull. The balcony looked like the most pleasant place to be seated, although we were seated inside, and I’d recommend requesting a table out there.
Quay Four’s menu focuses on fresh seafood, but they also offer several meat, poultry, vegetarian and pasta dishes. Spoilt for choice, we finally decided on starters, with RL having the Scallop and Kingclip fishcakes and BH having the Steamed Mussels in a garlic, dill, white wine and cream sauce. GS chose the Tempura prawns with crispy-fried leeks, and I tried the baby calamari tubes in chilli orange butter. RL’s fishcakes were very enjoyable, but BH was peculiarly quiet about his mussels. We later found out that he found them extremely disappointing, remarking that they tasted like tinned mussels in an instant packet-sauce, but didn’t want to worry RL who had ordered them for her main. GS’s tempura prawns were crunchy and delicious, with the crispy-fried leeks adding an unusual, but tasty element to this popular starter. My baby calamari tubes were outstanding, with the fresh, zesty, orangey sauce complimenting the delicate calamari flavour to perfection.
With the notable exception of the mussels, the starters were a happy surprise, and we were looking forward to our mains. RL, unfortunately, had the same abysmal experience with her mussels, and was suitably unimpressed. GS’s rare tuna steaks arrived very much overcooked and had to be sent back. His accompanying pesto mash and teriyaki sauce, however, were sublime. As in close-your-eyes-so-that-pesky-vision-doesn’t-detract-from-the-flavour-symphony-in-your-mouth-sublime. Sadly the second plate with the tuna steaks now rare as ordered, somehow managed to subtly change the mash and sauce, which, while still delicious, just didn’t have the same radiant flavour. GS manfully hid his tears of disappointment, and went to work on his now edible, but still unimpressive tuna steaks. BH, meanwhile tucked into his Catch of the Day – Blackfish, which he opted to have oven-baked with tomato, white anchovies, olives & feta cheese, topped with a crustacean sauce. He was, at first, less than excited by the mild-flavoured fish, but discovered that the white anchovies really complemented the flavours and ended up thoroughly satisfied with his choice. Continuing my citrus trend, I chose the Duck, which was served perfectly crisp, moist and flavourful, with a rich, sweet, citrus jus – definitely one of the better duck dishes I’ve enjoyed.
Courses must have been large; not even we seasoned eaters could find room to sample the desserts, which were presented on an old-fashioned trolley, a little out-of-keeping with the elegant dining experience.
Service throughout the meal was polite, but lacked the refinement of fine dining establishments. Our waitress was never around when we needed her, despite the small number of occupied tables to serve and while proficient and professional when we could find her, made us feel a little like a transaction, rather than valued guests.
The atmosphere was sadly dull, as the restaurant was more than half-empty (or less than half full, if you prefer). The cutlery, crockery and glasses were also more suited to the Spur than an upmarket restaurant.
Overall Quay Four is tricky to categorise. The food, other than the mussels, was better on average, than your standard Waterfront establishment, and prices were not obviously aimed at tourist pockets. It is difficult, however, to forget just how bad the mussels were, and we wonder how a rare tuna steak becomes cooked beyond recognition in a professional kitchen. The decor could definitely use a revamp, and I’d advise going on a weekend in the hopes of a livelier atmosphere. That said, parts of our meal were outstanding, and I, for one, wouldn’t turn down the opportunity to sample the baby calamari or that Teriyaki sauce again.
So how do we vote on Quay Four? Unreliable. Unpredictable. In good conscience we just can’t recommend a restaurant that can bring you a sublime dish for one course, and something virtually inedible for the next. Or that changes the recipe for its sauces from one plate to the next. I hate to say it, because my own meal was great, but until Eating Alphabetically can say, without doubt, that the same standard applies to all the dishes, we’re going to have to suggest our readers give it a miss. Such potential, but just too much like Russian roulette with food.
Ambiance: *
Service: **½
Food: ***
Wine: **½
Quay Four Upstairs / Quay 4 / V&A Waterfront / Tel: 021 419 2008 / Email: info@quay4.co.za / www.quay4.co.za
TH: ****
GS: ***
RL: ***½
BH: ***½
Average Rating: ***½
RL and I originally went to Pigalle many many moons ago and were enthralled by the place and seduced by the Naçional sauce so it was the natural choice for “P”.
Pigalle in Green Point has been around for ages yet doesn’t have the feeling of being run down. For some reason you feel the need to dress up when you decide to dine at Pigalle, there’s just something about the place that makes it feel like a treat. When you arrive, you’re immediately immersed in a different world; walking through a grand entrance lobby you’re faced with tinted sliding doors that elude to something magic behind. Yes, I’m possibly being a bit over-dramatic in the description but Pigalle really is an escape. The converted ice rink could have been a big 300 seater canteen with a cheezy band in the corner but instead it’s been lavishly, if slightly erratically, decorated and divided up in to intimate sections, all with a view of the band playing rat pack classics with style.
Feeling swept up in the ambiance of live music, jovial diners and a mysteriously foreign waiter, we threw caution to the wind. Well, not really but Pigalle’s seafood isn’t cheap but we dived in anyway. Our ever present and eager waiter, Patso, ran through the menu and specials and then informed us that if there’s any combination of items on the menu that we’d prefer, he’d make sure it was arranged… a cunning way of selling up while simultaneously making us feel spoilt. For starters, TH tried the Scallops, which I’ve been wary of since Emilys, and found the muscle quite nice but also found the coral a little unusual - we decided it’s an acquired taste. GS had the Mushroom Ravioli but wasn’t that impressed, saying the mushrooms were a little bland. RL had the Mussels with a cream and white wine sauce that was worth trying to eat with a fork but thankfully Patso saved us that indignity by bringing some extra bread. I had the Seafood Soup, which was great. It was full of flavour with hearty undertones and a richness that made me want to sigh with contentment after every spoonful.
For mains, RL and I each had a Pigalle Platter, which at R270 is quite pricey for the volume of food but we added the additional Naçional Sauce to the langoustines and tucked in with wild abandon… in other words, we tried not to think about it. The Naçional Sauce was more fiery that we remembered but made everything taste so good. TH and GS had the Seafood Platter for Two, but, after a good sales pitch by Patso, pimped it up by swapping their regular crayfish for the thermidor version. This seemed like a good value for money at R490 with 2 sizeable portions of linefish (Cob), a good few prawns, some mussels and the crayfish. There were only shells left on the plate at the end which can only be a good sign although GS did reach for the salt once or twice. This was one of those deceptive meals… it didn’t look like a lot of food but after starters and mains, we were all quite full and skipped the desserts.
There are however some negatives to Pigalle that I need to note;
The first thing I need to warn you about is that Pigalle does not serve tap water. I’m not sure why and this isn’t a problem most of the time but to be denied a simple glass of water certainly rubbed everyone at the table the wrong way… Thankfully, Patso managed to smuggle a glass to our table for RL.
The second thing I need to warn you about is that eating at Pigalle can be pricey, the bill for our table with 2 bottles of wine came to R1844,50. That said, you can certainly choose more cost effective options than we did.
Thirdly, I’m sad to say that the bathrooms are abysmal. Considering all the effort they put into the rest of the interiors the bathrooms could really do with a little more than high school style board partitians and melamine.
Finally, book. This place is always busy so unless you’re okay with starting supper at 21.30, I’d recommend phoning ahead of time.
Ambiance: ****
Service: ****
Food: ***½
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: **
Pigalle Cape Town / 57A Somerset Road / Green Point / Tel: 021 421 4848 / Email: pigalle@mweb.co.za / www.pigallerestaurants.co.za
TH: ***½
GS: ****
RL: ***½
BH: ****
Average Rating: ****
With our third visit to Opal Lounge, we noticed a definite change. The cuisine in the past had always been delicious and well-presented, but the menu has now definitely advanced firmly in to the realm of “haute cuisine” and concept food - with a corresponding increase in price. This is always a difficult style of food to serve… every dish is a unique combination of ingredients and flavours. Small mistakes can ruin the entire dish, and balancing the flavours is often tricky. The top restaurants manage this juggling act, and institutions that do not scarcely last long.
In our experience, Opal Lounge is up to the challenge so far - their food, whilst not the best available in the city, is certainly remarkable enough to warrant a visit. I’d suggest that they need a little bit more time to perfect some of the dishes - the quality of the food varied, with some outstanding dishes and some more mediocre ones, but the overall experience was good. Specifically, presentation was in top form - most of the dishes more closely resembled works of art (at least until the first few bites!).
For starters, RL thoroughly enjoyed the Pan-seared Scallops, accompanied with a Chorizo foam (the saltiness paring well with the scallops). BH ordered the Mushroom Tortellini - a dish which has changed drastically since Opal Lounge’s inception. The current offering is an excellent starter, with a delicately spiced creamy sauce accompanying filled tortellinis. GS’s Venison and Chocolate Dimsung was appreciated by the ladies around the table, but GS remarked that the chocolate itself was initially very overpowering (offputtingly so), although it grew on him over the life of the dish. Lastly, TH’s Prawn and Avocado Caesar Salad bore only the faintest resemblance to its namesake - although the presentation did not get in the way of her enjoying it fully.
Our mains offered a slightly more mixed bag. RL had ordered Almond-crusted Venison, which she found uninspiring. To be precise, her most noteworthy comment was on the amount of caramalized red cabbage that accompanied it - too much for her (or anyone!) to eat. GS had the Thai Marinated Salmon without any complaints. Lightly seared, delicately flavoured in a way that accompanied and enhanced rather than overpowered the salmon itself. The Soya-glazed Duck Salad that BH had was certainly not short on the duck - and the accompanying greens added a lighter freshness to balance the salty fattiness of the duck itself. Lastly, TH’s Lamb Shank with a berry foam was described as “alright, but not the best lamb shank around”.
The desserts were a highlight - no missteps here! The inventive Tiramisu Creme Brulee (served in a martini glass, with the creme brulee resting above the tiramisu), was delicious even without the accompanying ice cream and biscotti with a coffee dipping sauce. The Catalana Custard, whilst less inventive, was also thoroughly enjoyed - enough so that sharing was out of the question!
Price wise, starters averaged around R60 and mains R130. Not quite the bargain we discovered when we first visited Opal Lounge, but certainly reasonable and comparable to other restaurants in this range. We were disappointed that no host greeted us at the door, and whilst the service was technically capable, the tableside manner of the waiter could have been better. He seemed reticent to make any personal recommendations, and could provide little more information on the dishes that the menu itself offered.
In the end, Opal Lounge continues to offer dining in one of Cape Town’s most attractive establishments, and their cocktails alone justify a visit… but whilst you’re there, you may as well stay for the food.
Ambiance: ****
Service: ***
Food: ***½
Wine: ***
Bathrooms: ****
Opal Lounge Restaurant / 30 Kloof Street / Tel: 021 422 4747 / rochelle@theopallounge.co.za / http://www.theopallounge.co.za
